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When you arrive in this city, you may well approach it from the outskirts, passing tall, monotonous grey buildings from the Soviet era and crowds of people squeezing themselves onto buses or queuing for provisions outside dreary-looking shops.

When you arrive in this city, you may well approach it from the outskirts, passing tall, monotonous grey buildings from the Soviet era and crowds of people squeezing themselves onto buses or queuing for provisions outside dreary-looking shops.